Publisher's Essay
Doing it right all along

John Bodenhamer
Prior to my first trip a few months ago to golf's holy land - Scotland, England and Ireland - I developed expectations about what I would experience.

Those expectations were built largely on the perceptions of friends who had visited and accounts I had read - all flavored with a little of my own imagination.

It was all I dreamed it would be and more.

In the midst of the trip, I felt something deep in my golfing soul that at first I could not quite identify. As I walked the fairways of Royal Liverpool Golf Club, as Bobby Jones had done en route to a British Open victory during his Grand Slam of 1930, it hit me like a gust of wind off the Irish Sea. There is a level of respect for the traditions of the game in the British Isles that rarely surfaces in North America. This is borne out in several ways.

At the great links courses, the reverence for the caddie, the trolley (pull cart) and walking is front and center. I do not recall seeing a motorized golf cart. Practice ranges also are the exception. You just put on your rain gear, hit a few putts, and off the first tee you go. Golf balls were difficult to come by when the first links courses were built and practice ranges remain a low priority. Ball washers, fancy tee markers, and paved cart paths just aren't present. And don't even think about falling behind the group ahead, as this shows the ultimate disrespect for the game. You also rarely see palatial clubhouses. Rather, they are charming, understated and functional.

We were welcomed warmly everywhere we went and were frequently afforded tours of the grounds and the clubhouses. It was as if the guardians of these great places relished in sharing their treasure with others who hold the game in high regard. Everything is so wonderfully old and well preserved. It is as if time has stood still for 150 years and the ghost of Old Tom Morris is ever present.

John Bodenhamer stops at Prestwick Golf Club, where Old Tom Morris hit the opening tee shot of the very first British Open in 1860.
If Prestwick Golf Club (Scotland) was built in North America today, with its blind shots, drivable par-4s, and incredibly quirky greens, people would scoff and ridicule it. But the site of the very first British Open in 1860 is a monument to the game in its purest, natural form. There was no earthmoving equipment when Prestwick was created in the mid-1800s. That natural look and feel remains today and it is marvelous.

Adjacent to Prestwick's 15th hole is a stone monument long ago erected to commemorate Old Tom Morris' opening tee shot with his feathery ball in that inaugural Open Championship. It was a powerful moment to stand on that spot and look out over the windswept dunes and gorse of this ancient place and imagine what it must have been like to hit that first shot in that storied championship in 145 years ago.

Most all the courses have a designated starter, who wields tight control of the tee. I will never forget one particular starter who was a large and proper man in his 50s, adorned in a navy sport coat and regimental tie who guarded the first tee like a proud father watches over his child. When my friend Mike (who will go further unnamed) jumped up on the first tee at our starting time and proceeded to place his tee in the ground so as to not fall behind the group in front, we immediately heard a commanding Scottish voice say, "I will tell you when you can tee your ball."

The memories of famous holes, champions and shots from years gone by are all around. The par-3 dubbed the "postage stamp" at Royal Troon where Gene Sarazen made his famous hole-in-one, the original "Hogan's Alley" at Carnoustie that the "Wee Ice Mon" mastered in 1953, and the infamous road hole where so many have met disaster at the Old Course at St. Andrews are just a few special holes that are testaments to historical tradition.

Best of all, the clubs that are home to these memories have each also usually enshrined these precious bits of golf history in their clubhouses.

Encountering a gnarly lie at Northern Ireland's Royal County Down Golf Club.
The Old Course at St. Andrews was especially meaningful. Hitting from the first tee with the gray-stoned clubhouse of the Royal & Ancient Golf Club standing sentinel in the background and finishing by crossing the famous Swilcan Bridge that Roman Legions had crossed centuries ago was simply awe-inspiring. At the same time, it was an intimate setting as the public meanders about parts of the course and the R&A clubhouse in a public-park-like atmosphere. There is nothing pretentious about the birthplace of the game.

The Scots, English and Irish have it right. Keep the course natural, the surroundings understated and the attitudes welcoming. Above all, showcase the game's history and traditions, as they are not easily earned and must be respected. I found it to be an inspiring elixir and cannot wait to return for another sip.
More from PNGM's December 2004 Issue here...


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